Welcome to WindowCandles


Installation Steps
WindowCandles are designed to be installed easily. If you have ever installed an alarm system phone system or audio system, you will have no problem installing our window candles. All candles are wired with our exclusive UL class II yellow wire. Up to six (6) window candles can be connected to a single run! You do not have to home run each candle. We have designed this system for up to 24 candles on a single power supply. If additional candles are needed just purchase an additional power supply.

1. Plan the system
There are a number of ways the system can be laid out in a home. Carefully plan all runs and windows to be wired to make installation as easy as possible, while maintaining the proper number of candles per run.

2. Choose the proper power supply
There are two types of power supplies available depending on the installation layout, and the number of candles.

WC4Z: This transformer is recommended for all installations. It provides the most features and options for expansion. The unit will handle up to 24 candles in four runs of six candles. If installation is for more than 24 candles, additional boxes can be installed. Recommended installation is next to the fuse box or main power source. A separate 110 volt outlet is required for each box.

WC50VA: The smaller ‘brick style’ transformer is recommended for use with a limited number of candles. The transformer is rated up to 15 candles. A ‘daisy chain’ of candles or runs of 6 candles can be wired to this transformer. It requires a 110 volt outlet for power.

3. Wire through walls
The system is pre-wired into the walls of new or existing homes. In a continuous run (no more than 6 candles per run), WindowCandles yellow wire is run through wall studding to the sill plate of each window. A 3/8" diameter bit can be used to drill holes in wall studding to run the wire from window to window.

4. Drill mounting hole
A 3/4 inch hole is drilled in the center of the sill plate leaving at least 1 1/4 inches of clearance between the center of the hole and the window (allow enough clearance for any window hardware).
5. Pull wire through mounting hole
The yellow wire, still in a continuous run, is then pulled up at least 6 to 8 inches through the drilled mounting hole. The wire can be taped to the window (if installed) to keep it from falling back through, or the wire can be tied into a knot. DO NOT staple the wire, since any excess will have to be pushed back into the hole after final installation.

6. Install the window sticker
Place the provided window sticker on the inside of EACH window. These instructions are for the trim carpenter and are VERY IMPORTANT. View the Window Sticker.

At this point the construction crew and trim carpenter will install window trim, drywall, and a window sill.

7. Run wire to power source location
After the yellow wire has been run to each window, the wire should then be routed to the location of the main power supply and transformer and then routed through the top of the transformer enclosure. (Do not connect wires at this time). Mark each wire with a tag denoting which zone the wire is run to.

8. Drill mounting hole
If the trim carpenter followed the instructions on the window sticker, there should be a 3/4 inch hole in your sill, with the yellow wire pulled through it. If not a 3/4 inch hole is drilled in the center of the windowsill leaving at least 1 1/4 inches of clearance between the center of the hole and the window (allow enough clearance for any window hardware).

9. Testing the system
After the wire has been run to the windowsills and then run to the location of the power supply, the system should be tested to assure that there are no loose connections or shorts.
  1. Connect all wires at the power supply as shown, and connect an audible buzzer to the connected wires. If the system is installed properly with no shorts, the buzzer will not sound. If there is a short, the buzzer will sound.

  2. You can test the entire house at one time, or test each separate zone. You will need to go to the last window (farthest from the power source) on each run, pull up the single wire, and splice the ends together. This will create a short and cause the buzzer to sound.

  3. Now ,start at the window closest to the power supply (typically the first window on each run) and cut the wire loop, the buzzer should stop.

  4. Now follow steps 10 and 11, ‘mounting clip assembly’ and ‘installing wire lock and mounting clip’.

  5. As each wire lock and mounting clip installation is completed properly, the buzzer should again sound. If it doesn’t, there is a connection problem.
10. Mounting clip assembly
Our custom Mounting Clip and Wire Lock components make installation simple and safe provided you use our specially made and designed top quality Class 2 UL recognized wire and the recommended installation tools.
  1. At each window, pull the cut wire through the wire lock and then split the wire.

  2. Lay the split wire into the channels of the wire lock, by splitting the screw hole’ on the wire lock.

  3. Repeat the process for the other side of the wire lock.

  4. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to ‘seat’ the yellow wire in each channel.

  5. Using a pair of flush cut pliers trim the end of the wires. Be sure to remove all wire so that there is a clean edge.
11. Assembling wire lock and mounting clip
The wire lock is inserted into the bottom of the mounting clip using the key and slots, making sure to line-up the screw holes. Using the micro screwdriver, the small screws are used to secure the wire lock to the mounting clip, making sure not to overtighten.

12. Installation of mounting clip
After the mounting clip has been assembled and the system tested, the entire mounting clip assembly can be installed into the mounting hole.

Pre-drilling the holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit into the sill is recommended. The assembly is secured by two (2) large screws inserted with a #1 phillips screwdriver or screw bit.

Use the Installation and Removal Tool to tap down the mounting clip. The clip fits snugly in the 3/4 inch drilled hole, and sometimes needs to be tapped down in the hole. Insert the IRT into the mounting clip and tap the top with a rubber mallet or hammer.

The tool can also be used to remove the mounting clip, instead of prying the clip up with a screwdriver and possibly damaging the windowsill.

Mounting clip installation complete!
You now have a completed installation of the mounting clip.
13. Mounting clip cover installation and removal
The mounting clip covers are paintable and can be utilized to keep the mounting clips clean and free of dirt when candles are not being used.

To install the cover, align it with the mounting clip and snap into place. Mounting clip covers are inconspicuous and blend into the sill.

To remove, simply pinch the mounting clip cover – front to back (thinnest part of the oval) and lift.

14. Rough-in plugs
Due to the fact that installation is much easier and less expensive before drywall is in place, we recommend that all windows be wired, even if candles are not immediately installed in them. For this purpose we have a rough-in plug that is installed in the 3/4 inch mounting hole and has the wiring attached to it.

The rough-in plug can be easily pulled out at a later date to install a permanent mounting clip and candle. The plug is inconspicuous and can be painted to match the window sill trim.

15. Wiring the power supply
Referring back to your plan, separate your wires based on appropriate zone.
  1. Label the inside of the box, for future reference.

  2. Split the wire and strip 1/2 inch of the sheathing.

  3. Loosen the screws on ‘Zone 1’ of the transformer (far left screws).

  4. Insert ends of wire under metal tabs (it does not matter which wire goes on top or bottom) and tighten screws.

  5. Repeat for each zone.

Note: The photo shows four (4) conductor wire on the right hand side of the transformer. This is for the installation of a master switch. However, our yellow wire can also be used when wiring for a master switch.

16. Candle Installation
Installation of the candlestick is simple – align the “tee” on the bottom of the Decorative Candle with the “slot” on the windowsill mounted Mounting Clip and slide the Decorative Candle into position.

17. Base Installation
Once the candle is installed, simply slide the Decorative Base over the window candle and allow the oval recess in the Decorative Base to completely cover the oval shape of the Mounting Clip.

18. Sleeve Installation
The decorative sleeves are specifically designed to slide snugly over the off-white candle.They can be changed with or without removing the candle or base. Simply place the sleeve over the candlestick and push all of the way down until the top of the sleeve is flush with the top of the candlestick.

Click Here for a complete list of decorative sleeves.

19. Bulb Replacement
The decorative bulbs used in this system are specially designed. DO NOT use bulbs that draw more than 2 watts – the internal safety circuit of the candle will not allow it. If you experience a bulb slowly self-extinguishing immediately after turning the candles on, you probably have installed a bulb that requires more than 2 watts.

Click here for decorative bulb colors.
Installation Complete!
Now you have an attractive, safe and functional window candle installed in your home.

WindowCandles, LLC
Fax: 410.734.0215
Email: info@windowcandles.com

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